Flora feeding schedule for soil

Hesi Original Sjemenke Hempatia
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PowerSeed

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Naleteh na ovaj plan prihrane, pa da stavim pod FAQ, mozda nekom zatreba a racunam da ne moze da smeta. Mislim da se toliko znanja engleskog podrazumeva, pa da se ne smaram prevodjenjem, ko negde eventualno zapne ima google transl. Oznaka tsp=teaspoons per gallon (oko 4 litre, tj. 3.78 litara), a dato je i u ml.

This feeding schedule will help you on your new adventure of growing high quality marijuana. These ratios are based on a medium consisting of a semi-soilless mix of 1/3 Super Soil (a generic soil brand from Home Depot), 1/3 perlite & 1/3 vermiculite. Supersoil contains no nutrients, so if using a different brand w/ nutrients adjust your fert amounts accordingly. With a soilless mix, approximately 1/4 of the water going in has to be runoff, to wash out the salts from the last watering & any build-ups. It is very important to check the PH of your runoff water also. For example, if it is going in at 6.2 and the runoff is 6.8, you have a salt build-up and have to flush your plants w/ PH adjusted water & then check runoff. This is very important, because at higher or lower PH levels plants will take in more or less of some nutrients. Use good quality water with a PPM of less then 150. When using GH Flora series always mix your micro first, stir well, then add your grow, stir well, then your bloom, again stirring well. Failure to mix your micro first will result in certain nutrients being locked out & unavailable to the plant. Measurements are given in teaspoons per gallon using GH Flora series.

SEEDLINGS
(Day 1 - 14)
During this stage your plants need no nutrients. Plants have enough energy stored to last them roughly 2 weeks. I've seen many grows ruined because people killed their plants during this period.

VEGETATIVE GROWTH
(Day 15 - 45)

Early - 1 tsp (5ml) each - micro , grow & bloom. Adjust PH to 6.2

Middle - 1 1/4 tsp (6.25 ml) micro, 1 1/4 tsp grow, 1 tsp bloom. Adjust PH to 6.2

Late - 1 1/2 tsp (7.5 ml) micro, 1 1/2 tsp grow, 1 tsp bloom. Adjust PH to 6.2

FLOWERING
(Day 46 - 106, more or less depending on strain)

Early - 1 1/2 tsp micro, 1 tsp grow, 1 1/2 tsp bloom. Adjust PH to 6.2

Middle - 1 3/4 tsp (8.75 ml) micro, 3/4 tsp (3.75 ml) grow, 1 3/4 tsp bloom. Adjust PH to 6.3

Late - 2 tsp (10ml) micro, 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) grow, 2 tsp bloom. Adjust PH to 6.3

Later - 2 1/2 tsp (12.5 ml) micro, 1/2 tsp grow, 3 tsp (15 ml) bloom. Adjust PH to 6.4

Always remember to water your plants w/plain PH adjusted water the last 2 weeks to wash out any built up salts & to try & reduce the chemical taste that unused ferts leave behind in the weed. The plants used in this example were grown using a 400 watt HPS. If you use this information & have good genetics, I guarantee you will have a good amount of high quality weed in 3 1/2 months.
 

Avantura

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Trebao bi dobrovoljac za prevod pa da presvučemo tekst po naški. Ovo je balkan, ja loše i hrvatski pričam, engleski mogu skontati šta je pjesnik htio reći a samo je jedna tema na ovom forumu "ingliš langviđ onli":))
Imaš rep+ od mene, tko prevede dobije duplo:)
 
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hvala za rep, ma nemas ti problema sa jezikom bro, a opet znam da bi bilo bolje na nashki, but, stvarno me mrzi prevoditi, kratke su to recenice u biti i samo osnova engl. je dovoljna da se skontaju osnovne stvari. s druge strane, naleteo sam na par materijala i svukao ih u originalu, pa tako i postavljam, racunam da informacije ne mogu da skode, pa ko se kako snadje. bude li dobrovoljaca za prevodjenje, imam ja jos stofa, kratkog i zgodnog, mislim, nekima verovatno korisnog. peace uz jos jedan prilog:

What is color temperature of a bulb?

The color of a light source entails a complicated relationship of different factors, that are important in determining the right light source for your garden. The advantage of Metal Halide lamps is that they provide high-quality, crisp white light in a variety of different color temperatures that meet the needs of many different users.

Correlated Color Temperature(CCT)
The first factor in choosing a color of lamp is to determine whether you need a warm or cool light source. The CCT, expressed in Kelvin degrees, relates to actual thermal temperature. If you've ever seen a piece of metal being heated, you know that as the metal gets hotter, it's color changes. The CCT rating of HID and flourescent light sources indicate how warm or cool the light source is. For instance a lamp with a CCT of 2700 Kelvin is considered warm; with a CCT of 4200 Kelvin is considered neutral; and one of 6000 Kelvin is considered cool.

Spectral Energy Distribution
When you look at a light source, you perceive seeing a single color, but you are actually seeing thousands of hues. The combinations of different wavelengths of light make up the color we see. The relative intensity of the various wavelengths are used to determine a light source's Color Rendering Index(CRI).

Color Rendering Index(CRI)
The CRI is an indication of a lamps ability to show individual colors relative to a standard. This value is determined from a comparison of the lamp's spectral distribution compared to a black body at the same color temperature. Light sources, such as metal halide lamps, are rated with a CCT; however, CCT does not provide any information on the quality of the color. For this, a CRI is also necessary. In general, the higher the CRI rating of a lamp, the better the different colors will show.

5K - 7K Kelvin: Strong Blue Light
Promotes bushy growth. Ideal for rapid growth phase of plants. Greatly enhances all-around plant growth when used with super high output, high pressure sodium or 3K warm metal halide lamps.

4.2K - 4200 Kelvin: Cool white Flourescents
Can be used as supplimental blue lighting when used with a 3K source.

4K - 4000 Kelvin: Neutral Metal Halide
Best single source for plant growth, producing shorter, bushier growth than 3700 Kelvin and color rendition. Used in general plant lighting.

3.7K - 3700 Kelvin: Softer Metal Halide(coated)
This coated lamp is used in general plant lighting and for more rapid growth than 4000 Kelvin produces.

3K - 3200 Kelvin: Warm Metal Halide
Highest photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) value of all HID lighting for all phases of plant growth. PAR watts account for the nutritional value of light and are a direct measure of the light energy available for photosythesis.

2.7K - 2700 Kelvin: High Pressure Sodium Lamps
Redder color mix, used for propagation, blooming, supplemental greenhouse lighting.
 
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nesto sto svakom od nas moze po nekad da zatreba, dobar, kratak i jasan tekst + link na kraju za sajt sa fotkama najcescih problema, peace

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. -> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. -> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. -> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. -> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft -> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. -> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. -> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. -> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. -> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. -> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. -> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. -> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.

The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:p:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

pH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter, preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

:icon_arrow: uz ovaj tekst obavezno bacite pogled i na ovaj link, mozda vam pomognu ilustracije na njemu

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* * *
 
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svaka cast b_t_b_g, ako te ne smara sta god da uradis (cak eventualno i modifikujes) imas veliki :respect: !
 

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Eto, prevedeno, nalazi se po Uzgoj FAQ.
Nadam se da sam pomogao i da je tekst jasan, citljiv i razuman.
 
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NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.

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1. Don't Over water.
Over watering kills cannabis plants. Water once the top few inches of the soil dry out.

Hydroponics is harder to over water because rockwool has such excellent drainage properties. As long as the rockwool cubes are not sitting in liquid it is virtually impossible to over water a hydroponic setup. A hydroponic setup could either be watered constantly as the drip method, or once to three times a day as in the flood and drain method.

2. Don't Tell People.
Why? They will only be jealous. People love to feel important and that is why they will tell other people; because others will listen to them.
Keep it to yourself.

3. Touch/kill Germinating Seeds.
Please have some patience. It sometimes takes 10 days for a seed to sprout. The paper towel method is not recommended because you must handle the seeds when transferring them from the paper towel to your growing medium.

4. Grow seeds from seeded cannabis.
One of the greatest disappointments known to the growing man.
90% of what the final product will be is in the seed's genetics and has little to do with the environment the plant is grown in.
Many get their hands on the seed and think they have a gold mine. They will probably grow something like this: hermaphrodites, tall late flowering females coupled with early flowering males. This is because the only pollen that could have produced the seed was from a hermaphrodite or a very stunted and late flowering male the grower did not notice. Unless you are prepared for possible disappointment don't use "unknown" seeds. This is why people buy seeds from seedbanks.

5. Don't Over fertilize.
Fertilize after first 2 spiked leaves appear follow the label. DON'T FERTILIZE EVERY TIME YOU WATER!!!
Start with 25% and work your way up!
Leach the plants with lots of pure water every 2-4 weeks. Organic growing is recommended. Its tastes better and burns much better.
If the leaves suddenly twist or fold under, Leach and Spray with pure water for several days!

6. Don't Under fertilize.
Under fertilizing is less common but it happens. If you are one of those people that likes to give the plant just enough nutrients make sure you use a organic soil mixture with blood meal and bone meal or some slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients.

7. Don't Start with Clones. (I personally don't agree with this, I use clones and cuttings).
Start with seeds. Bugs are a pain, So are plant diseases. Many growers are able to grow indoors without pest problems for years. If they do get pests they are probably not enjoying the change from their usual diet to cannabis resin! But as soon as you come in contact with others grow material (cuttings) it is almost guaranteed that its from a long time grower that has many different pests all eating cannabis and bug spray (and surviving) for hundreds of generations!... Think about it.

8. Don't Start Too Early Inside or Outdoors.
For several reasons! If you are starting outdoors June 1 is perfect. But if I start earlier I will get bigger buds right? Probably Wrong!
Its strange but usually true. ill explain. Plants started in early spring will get big but they will take significantly longer to start flowering. This is because at the peak vegetative period they sense the light cycles getting longer and longer, until June 21. But they don't realize that its time to flower yet. Finally in the middle of August the plant says "HEY" "time to flower already" and it produces buds in August and September or later they will be tall as trees but thinner buds due to the fact that the sun is not as strong in September. Now if the ganja plants were put out later, as soon as they get a foot off the ground they say "what's going on" I am just in early veggie and the light hours aren't getting longer in fact SHORTER" Then the plants go crazy and since the sun is so bright in July and August you get amazing 6 foot trees that are heavier than the plants started in April!!! in addition to finishing earlier the late started plants are not nearly as noticeable.

Indoors is the same for different reasons. The light cannot penetrate more than a foot or two. So flower when plants are a foot tall. If you wait longer because you want bigger yields, you will get smaller yields and wait longer for them.

9. Don't Provide A Bad Environment.
Always provide air circulation and fresh air even during the night cycle is fine. All the air indoors should be replaced every 5-10 minutes.
Humidity between 30-70% temp aim for around 75-85' Even seedlings need a gentle fan to strengthen the stems.

10. Don't Harvest Too Early.
I know its hard. You see the buds and resin forming at a rapid rate. The buds are potent and you feel tempted to chop em down! The only problem is that another 25% of the weight will form in 2 more weeks. Wait until the plants have totally stopped growing and the white pistils are at least 50-75% brown.
*NOTE: Outdoors if security is a factor make your own call on when to sacrifice the fields. Also take buds continuously in case of thieves.
 

Tarki

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Svaka čast na svemu napisanome, no prvi post je npr bezveze, tu se priča o doziranju gnojiva Floranova linije od GHE ako se ne varam (koja su btw jebačka gnojiva), to je obični feed chart kojeg svaka kompanija ima na svom sajtu, i uvjetno rečeno je bezveze, jer ne jedu sve biljke jednako hrane, nije svima korjen jednako dobro razvijen, pa se postavljaju i pitanja ugljikohidrata, enzima i hormona za razvoj korjena, što sve utječe na doziranje gnojiva biljci jer navedeni čine da biljka može više pojesti. Dakle, ne postoji univerzalno doziranje gnojiva koje se može primjeniti u svakom slučaju.

Ovo sve nisam napisao da nekom kenjam, nego čisto da se informacije o doziranju gnojiva uzmu uvjetno, jer velim ovisi od biljke do biljke, growera do growera i razvijenosti samog korjena. Čak se i ovaj NPK koncept zapravo pokazao dosta krivim (i ovo kaj piše tu na sajtu sve), dosta je tu dezinformacija i zapravo treba iskustvo da bi čovjek došao do nekog zaključka o tim gnojivima.

Inače full fino informacija se nalazi ovdje, i o problemima s gnojenjem i svime, kad bi se našlo dobrih ljudi s vutre i to prevelo bio bi to dobar job :thumb:
 
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stoji to sto pricas, fakat, malo toga je univerzalno i treba se oslanjati na vlastito iskustvo (+ iskustvo drugih)
a prevod odradio b_t_b_g i nalazi se u odeljku FAQ.
born_to_be_green je napisao(la):
Eto, prevedeno, nalazi se po Uzgoj FAQ.
Nadam se da sam pomogao i da je tekst jasan, citljiv i razuman.