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Marijuana Botany by Robert Connel Clark
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<blockquote data-quote="cannebosanac" data-source="post: 20020" data-attributes="member: 1357"><p>poglavlje 2 nastavak</p><p></p><p>In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of </p><p>stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regula- </p><p>tors, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering </p><p>is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the </p><p>Chinese. The ancient technique of goo tee uses a ball of clay </p><p>or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a </p><p>wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container </p><p>of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the </p><p>wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist. </p><p>The single most difficult problem with air layers is the </p><p>tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small </p><p>amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on </p><p>aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and </p><p>sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be </p><p>clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to </p><p>enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to </p><p>make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may </p><p>also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and </p><p>don't freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur </p><p>propagator and breeder because they take up little space </p><p>and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals. Making an Air Layer </p><p>A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 </p><p>inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually </p><p>a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb </p><p>tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is </p><p>splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of </p><p>approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered </p><p>along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in </p><p>place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. </p><p>This enables the propagator to handle the stem more con- </p><p>fidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. </p><p>Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist </p><p>of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed </p><p>or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, sur- </p><p>rounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum </p><p>moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear poly- </p><p>ethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each </p><p>end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so </p><p>tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is </p><p>crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate </p><p>outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic </p><p>florist's tape or electrician's tape works well for sealing air </p><p>layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, </p><p>the moss will dry out eventually and must be remoistened </p><p>periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and </p><p>would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to </p><p>inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. </p><p>If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are </p><p>checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out </p><p>and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any </p><p>extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by </p><p>tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick an- </p><p>chored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks </p><p>and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within </p><p>four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, </p><p>the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and trans- </p><p>planted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is </p><p>watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to </p><p>allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its </p><p>own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot </p><p>weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before </p><p>removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and </p><p>wilting. </p><p>Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. </p><p>Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to </p><p>save small samples of them for pollen collection and to </p><p>conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to </p><p>flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut </p><p>and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistil- </p><p>late plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for </p><p>the following season.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cannebosanac, post: 20020, member: 1357"] poglavlje 2 nastavak In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regula- tors, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the Chinese. The ancient technique of goo tee uses a ball of clay or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist. The single most difficult problem with air layers is the tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and don't freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur propagator and breeder because they take up little space and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals. Making an Air Layer A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. This enables the propagator to handle the stem more con- fidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, sur- rounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear poly- ethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic florist's tape or electrician's tape works well for sealing air layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, the moss will dry out eventually and must be remoistened periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick an- chored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and trans- planted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and wilting. Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to save small samples of them for pollen collection and to conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistil- late plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for the following season. [/QUOTE]
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Marijuana Botany by Robert Connel Clark
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